I didn’t know what to expect when I landed in Tirana, but this vibrant city blew me away from the moment I arrived. Bustling markets, quirky cafes, and friendly locals who are always up for a chat. Tirana feels like a mix of old-world charm and a fresh, creative vibe. Tirana isn’t the type of place that just checks the boxes — it’s the kind of city that pulls you in with a laid-back atmosphere that makes you feel right at home.
Hotel Gloria
This trip to Tirana was a very last minute affair and the choices for hotels near the city centre were severely limited. Looking at the reviews online Hotel Gloria stood out for the quality of their breakfast and so I decided to give it a go.
They are very proud of their breakfast offering, and rightfully so, this was breakfast for one!
The hotel itself was dated but the bed was comfortable and the rooms quiet, and I had two good night sleep whilst staying here. They also arranged airport transfers for €20 each way which was good value.
It was a very hot weekend in Tirana with daytime temperatures exceeding 40 centigrade and so my plan was to get out and about early before the temperature reached its height, and then retire for a siesta in the middle of the day. It had been so hot in the city that they there were cooling stations and first aid/water stations setup around the center.
The first aid station pictured above was located on the corner of Skanderbeg Square.
Skanderbeg Square
My day began at the crack of dawn, which is roughly 7:30 AM for those of us who aren’t exactly morning people. Skanderbeg Square was surprisingly calm, like the city hadn’t quite finished its morning coffee yet. Named after Albania’s national hero, Gjergj Kastrioti Skanderbeg, the square is an expansive area where Tirana’s past, present, and slightly confused future converge.
The first thing I noticed, apart from my desperate need for caffeine, was the giant statue of Skanderbeg on horseback looking out over the square.
Surrounding the square are several notable buildings, each with its own story, secrets, and in some cases, questionable architectural choices.
Pyramid of Tirana
After leaving the square, I walked toward the infamous Pyramid of Tirana, a building that can only be described as surreal. Built in 1988 as a museum dedicated to Enver Hoxha, the Pyramid is a large, hollow structure that now stands as a symbol of Tirana’s transition. The fit and foolhardy were climbing to the top but I was happy to keep my feet on the ground as the heat was already building.
BUNK’ART 2
Continuing on the theme of Albania’s communist history, I ventured to Bunk’Art 2, located in the city center. This bunker-turned-museum is a fascinating underground network built during the Cold War by dictator Enver Hoxha. Walking through its damp, concrete halls felt like stepping back in time to an era of extreme isolationism and paranoia.
Each room in the bunker was filled with multimedia displays, documents, and artifacts that explained Albania’s complex political history. Highlights included rooms showing how leaders lived in constant fear of invasion, the impact of the Hoxha regime on daily life, and memorials to those persecuted. It’s a somber place but essential for understanding Albania’s past.
I’d recommend that you reserve an hour or two for this visit.
House of Leaves
A short walk from Bunk’Art 2 brought me to the House of Leaves, one of the most thought-provoking stops of the day. The building itself has an ominous presence, as it was once the headquarters of Albania’s secret police during the communist era. Now a museum, the House of Leaves offers a sobering look at the surveillance techniques and paranoia that defined life under the dictatorship. Photography is not allowed in this building, a fact I was politely reminded of after taking a few photographs, There is an awful lot more to see than my few pictures suggest.
Inside, I explored exhibits showing wiretaps, hidden cameras, and detailed files on ordinary citizens who were monitored for decades. I’d recommend that you reserve a couple of hours for this visit too.
Komiteti – Kate Muzeum
The penultimate stop of the day was Komiteti – Kafe Muzeum, a hidden gem of a café filled with quirky, nostalgic items from Albania’s communist era. The atmosphere was cozy and packed with character—every corner of the place seemed to have something old, curious, or strange. I enjoyed a traditional Albanian coffee while relaxing in a retro chair that seemed to belong to another time.
Komiteti is not just a café; it’s an experience. The old radios, typewriters, and black-and-white photos adorning the walls transport you back to a different era. It was a nice contrast after the intense museums earlier in the day, offering a lighter, yet equally nostalgic, vibe.
Tanners Bridge
My final stop of the day was the Tanners’ Bridge (Ura e Tabakëve), one of the oldest structures in Tirana, dating back to the Ottoman era. This charming, stone pedestrian bridge once served as a key link for traders and tanners crossing the Lana River. Though the river now runs underground, the bridge remains as a testament to Tirana’s long history and the city’s layered architecture.
There were a number of places I did not get to visit which is all the excuse I need for a return trip in the future. I loved the vibe and atmosphere of the city and will be happy to return in the future. Some of the places that I still want to see are the Cathedral, the Mosque, Mount Tirana, and the cable car.